Opel Calibra 1988, Calibra 1989 User Manual (2023)

and which may result in

spillage. Before carrying out on the fuel system, refer to

given in the “Safety first!” the beginning of this manual them implicitly. Petrol is a

and volatile substance, necessary when

it cannot be overstressed.

7Fit a new air cleaner body-to-carburettor seal.

8Connect the crankcase ventilation hose to the stub on the underside of the body, and connect the vacuum hose for the air temperature control flap.

9Locate the body on the carburettor, and at the same time locate the inlet duct on the hot air hose on the exhaust manifold.

10Engage the crankshaft ventilation hose in the plastic clip.

11Refit the air cleaner element, referring to Chapter 1 if necessary.

Description

1 The air cleaner is thermostaticallycontrolled, to provide air at the most suitable temperature for combustion with minimum exhaust emission levels.

2 The optimum air temperature is achieved by drawing in cold air from an inlet at the front of the vehicle, and blending it with hot air

hot air hose

drawn from a shroud on the exhaust manifold. The proportion of hot and cold air is varied by the position of a flap valve in the air cleaner inlet spout, which is controlled by either a vacuum diaphragm or wax-type unit. The vacuum diaphragm type is regulated by a heat

sensor located within the air cleaner body

(see illustration).

Testing

3 To check the operation of the air temperature control, the engine must be cold. First check the position of the flap valve. On the vacuum type, remove the air cleaner cover and check that the flap is open to admit only cold air from outside the car. Then start the engine and check that the flap now moves to admit only hot air from the exhaust manifold. On the wax type, the flap should already be positioned to admit only hot air from the exhaust manifold.

4Temporarily refit the cover on the vacuum type.

5Run the engine until it reaches its normal operating temperature.

6On the vacuum type, remove the air cleaner cover and check that the flap is now positioned to admit only cold air from outside the car. In cold weather it should be a mixture of hot and cold air. Refit the cover after making the check. On the wax type, use a mirror to check that the flap is positioned in the same way as given for the vacuum type.

7If the flap does not function correctly, the air cleaner casing must be renewed. Note that the vacuum type thermostat can be renewed separately if necessary.

ventilation hose (arrowed)

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

1Disconnect the ignition coil LT lead.

2Place a clean piece of rag under the pump outlet, then disconnect the pump outlet hose. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions.

3Have an assistant crank the engine on the starter. Well-defined spurts of fuel must be ejected from the pump outlet - if not, the pump is probably faulty (or the tank is empty). Dispose of the fuel-soaked rag safely.

4No spare parts are available for the pump, and if faulty, the unit must be renewed.

Removal

1The fuel pump is located at the rear righthand end of the camshaft housing.

2Disconnect the battery negative lead.

3Disconnect the fuel hoses from the pump (see illustration). If necessary, label the

hoses so that they can be reconnected to their correct locations. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel spillage.

fuel pump - 1.6 litre model

6.4Withdrawing the fuel pump and plastic insulating block - 1.6 litre model

4 Unscrew the two securing bolts, and

withdraw the pump from the camshaft housing (see illustration).

5 Recover the plastic insulating block.

Refitting

6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the fuel hoses are reconnected to their correct locations as noted during removal, and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque.

7Run the engine and check for leaks on completion. If leakage is evident, stop the engine immediately and rectify the problem without delay. Note that the engine may take a longer time than usual to start when the pump has been removed, as the pump refills with fuel.

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a clean metal container that can be sealed.

3Chock the front wheels, then jack up the

rear of the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands (see “ Jacking and Vehicle Support” ) placed under the body side

members.

4 Disconnect the exhaust system front flexible joint. Suspend the front section of the exhaust system with wire or string from the underbody.

5Disconnect the rear section of the exhaust system from its rubber mountings, and allow it to rest on the rear suspension torsion beam. It is advisable to support the rear section of the exhaust at its front end, with wire or string from the underbody, to avoid straining the system.

6Unclip the handbrake cable from the bracket on the left-hand fuel tank securing strap.

7Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel level sender unit located in the right-hand side of the fuel tank. Make a note of the hose

positions for use when refitting. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel loss.

8 Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel level sender unit.

9Disconnect the filler and vent hoses from the rear of the fuel tank.

10Support the weight of the fuel tank on a jack with an interposed block of wood.

11Unscrew the securing bolts from the tank mounting straps, then remove the straps and

lower the tank sufficiently to enable the remaining vent hose.

assistant, withdraw the right-hand side of the vehicle. Note that as the tank is withdrawn,

some residual fuel may be released.

Examination

13If the tank contains sediment or water, it may be cleaned out using two or three rinses with clean fuel. Shake vigorously using several changes of fuel, but before doing so, remove the fuel level sender unit, as described in Section 8. This procedure should be carried out in a well-ventilated area, and it is vital to take adequate fire precautions - refer to the “ Safety first!” Section at the beginning of this manual for further details.

14Any repairs to the fuel tank should be carried out by a professional. Do not under any circumstances attempt to weld or solder a fuel tank. Removal of all residual fuel vapour requires several hours of specialist cleaning.

Refitting

15Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring that all hoses are reconnected to their correct locations as noted during removal.

16On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run the engine and check for leaks. If leakage is evident, stop the engine immediately and rectify the problem without delay. Note that the engine may take a longer time than usual to start when the fuel tank has been removed, as the pump refills with fuel.

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a clear metal container that can be sealed.

3Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear

of the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands (see “ Jacking and Vehicle Support”)

placed under the body side members.

4The sender unit is located in the right-hand side at the fuel tank.

5Make alignment marks on the sender unit and the fuel tank, so that the sender unit can be refitted in its original position.

6Disconnect the fuel hoses from the sender unit. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel loss.

7Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel level sender unit.

8To remove the sender unit, engage a flat piece of metal as a lever between two of the slots on the sender unit rim, and turn it anticlockwise.

9Withdraw the unit carefully, to avoid bending the float arm.

10Recover the sealing ring.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, remembering the following points.

12Examine the condition of the sealing ring, and renew if necessary.

13Ensure that the marks made on the sender unit and fuel tank before removal are aligned.

14Ensure that the hoses are reconnected to their correct locations as noted during removal.

15On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run the engine and check for leaks. Also check that the fuel gauge reads correctly. If leakage is evident, stop the engine immediately and rectify the problem without delay. Note that the engine may take a longer time than usual to start when the sender unit has been removed, as the fuel pump refills with fuel.

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Removal

1The fuel vapour separator is located on a bracket attached to the side of the carburettor.

2Note the locations of the three fuel hoses, labelling them if necessary for use when refitting, then disconnect the hoses from the vapour separator. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel spillage.

3Remove the two securing screws, and lift the vapour separator from its bracket.

4Check the body of the separator for cracks or leaks before refitting, and renew if necessary.

Refitting

5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the three fuel hoses are connected to their correct locations as noted during removal.

6Run the engine and check the hose connections for leaks on completion. If leakage is evident, stop the engine immediately and rectify the problem without delay.

arrowed

box. Extract the three securing screws and lift

off the air box, complete with air trunking (see illustration).

2Extract the clip from the cable end fitting at

the bracket on the carburettor, then slide the cable end grommet from the bracket (see illustrations).

3Slide the cable end from the throttle valve lever on the carburettor.

4Working inside the vehicle, remove the lower trim panel from the driver’s footwell.

5Slide the cable retainer from the bracket on the top of the pedal, and disconnect the cable end from the pedal.

6Make a careful note of the cable routing, then withdraw the cable through the bulkhead into the engine compartment.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, remembering the following points.

8Ensure that the cable is correctly routed, as noted before removal.

9Ensure that the bulkhead grommet is correctly seated in its hole.

Adjustment

10 On completion, check the throttle mechanism for satisfactory operation, and if necessary adjust the cable, as described in the following paragraphs.

11 Two points of cable adjustment are provided. A stop screw is located on the

pedal arm to control the fully released position of the pedal stop (see illustration). A clip is

11.1 Removing an air box securing screw

12 The cable should be adjusted so that when the throttle pedal is released, there is very slight free play in the cable at the carburettor end.

13 Check that when the throttle pedal is fully depressed, the throttle valve is fully open. Adjust the position of the clip on the cable sheath, and the pedal stop screw, to achieve the desired results.

12 Carburettor - general

1 The Pierburg 2E3 carburettor is of twinventuri, fixed-jet sequential throttle type. The primary throttle valve operates alone except at high engine speeds and loads, when the secondary throttle valve is operated, until at full-throttle, both are fully open. This arrangement allows good fuel economy during light acceleration and cruising, but also gives maximum power at full-throttle. The

secondary throttle valve is vacuum-operated, 4A according to the vacuum produced in the primary venturi. The primary throttle barrel

and venturi diameters are smaller than their secondary counterparts. The carburettor is a complicated instrument, with various refinements and sub-systems added to

achieve improved driveability, economy and exhaust emission levels (see illustrations).

2 A separate idle system operates independently from the main jet system, supplying fuel by way of the mixture control screw.

3The main jets are calibrated to suit engine requirements at mid-range throttle openings. To provide the necessary fuel enrichment at full throttle, a vacuum-operated power valve is used. The valve provides extra fuel under the low vacuum conditions associated with wide throttle openings.

4To provide an enriched mixture during acceleration, an accelerator pump delivers extra fuel to the primary main venturi. The accelerator pump is operated mechanically by a cam on the throttle linkage.

5A fully automatic choke is fitted, operated by a coolant and electrically heated bi-metal coil. When the engine is cold, the bi-metal coil is fully wound up, holding the choke plate (fitted to the primary barrel) closed. As the engine warms up, the bi-metal coil is heated and therefore unwinds, progressively opening the choke plate. A vacuum operated pulldown system is employed, whereby, if the engine is under choke but is only cruising (i.e. not under heavy load) the choke plate is opened against the action of the bi-metal coil. The pull-down system prevents an over-rich mixture, which reduces fuel economy and may cause unnecessary engine wear when the engine is cold. A secondary pull-down solenoid is fitted, which operates in conjunction with the main diaphragm unit to modify the pull-down characteristics, improving fuel economy.

61.8 litre models are fitted with an idle cut-off solenoid. This is an electrically operated valve, which interrupts the idle mixture circuit when the ignition is switched off, this preventing engine “run-on”.

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. New gasket(s) must be used when refitting the carburettor. A tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser will be required to check the idle speed and mixture on completion

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Remove the air cleaner, on early models. On later models, disconnect the air trunking from the air cleaner, then disconnect the vacuum pipe and breather hose from the air box. Extract the three securing screws and lift off the air box, complete with air trunking.

3On 1.4 litre models, disconnect the fuel supply hose from the carburettor, and on 1.6 and 1.8 litre models, disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses from the vapour separator. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the ends of the hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel spillage.

4Extract the clip from the throttle cable end fitting at the bracket on the carburettor, then slide the cable end grommet from the bracket, and slide the cable end from the throttle valve lever.

5Disconnect the coolant hoses from the automatic choke housing noting their locations, as an aid to refitting. Be prepared for coolant spillage, and plug the hoses, or secure them with their ends facing upwards, to prevent further coolant loss.

6Disconnect the vacuum pipes from the front

of the carburettor, noting their locations and routing for use when refitting (see illustration).

7Disconnect the choke heater wire and any additional wiring.

8 Unscrew the three securing nuts, and withdraw the carburettor from the inlet manifold studs.

9 Recover the gasket(s) and insulator block that fit between the carburettor and the inlet manifold.

Overhaul

10With the carburettor removed from the vehicle, drain the fuel from the float chamber and vapour separator (where applicable). Clean the outside of the carburettor, then remove the top cover (Section 15).

11Blow through the jets and drillings with compressed air, or air from a foot pump - do not probe them with wire. If it is wished to remove the jets, unscrew them carefully with well-fitting tools.

12Remove the fuel filter gauze from the inlet union, refer to Section 21, for details. Vauxhall recommend that it is renewed whenever the carburettor is cleaned.

pipe from the carburettor - 1.6 litre model

13Clean any foreign matter from the float chamber. Renew the float, the float needle valve and seat if wear is evident, or if the float is punctured or otherwise damaged. Check that the needle valve closes completely before the float reaches the top of its movement. See Section 15, for details of float level checking.

14Renew the diaphragms in the part-load enrichment valve and in the accelerator pump. If additional pump or valve parts are supplied in the overhaul kit, renew these parts also.

15Further dismantling is not recommended. Pay particular attention to the throttle opening mechanism arrangement if it is decided to dismantle it; the interlocking arrangement is important.

16Reassemble in the reverse order to dismantling. Use new gaskets and seals throughout; lubricate linkages with a smear of molybdenum based grease.

Refitting

17Carry out the following procedure before refitting.

a)Position the fast idle adjustment screw on the highest step of the fast idle cam.

b)Use a gauge rod or twist drill of the specified diameter to measure the opening of the primary throttle valve.

c)Adjust if necessary at the fast idle adjustment screw.

d)Note that this is a preliminary adjustment; final adjustment of the fast idle speed should take place with the engine running.

18Refitting is a reversal of removal, but renew the gasket(s).

19After refitting, carry out the following checks and adjustments.

20Check the throttle cable free play and adjust if necessary, as described in Section 11.

21Check and if necessary top-up the coolant level, as described in Chapter 3.

22Check and if necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture, as described in Section 14.

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. To carry out the adjustments, an accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required

1 To check the idle speed and mixture adjustment, the following conditions must be met:

a)The engine must be at normal operating temperature

b)All electrical consumers (cooling fan, heater blower, headlamps, etc.) must be switched off

c)The ignition timing and spark plug gaps must be correctly adjusted - see Chapters 1 and 5

d)The throttle cable free play must be correctly adjusted - see Section 11

e)The air inlet trunking must be free from leaks, and the air filter must be clean

equipment.

6 With the idle mixture correct, readjust the idle speed if necessary.

7 If the cooling fan cuts in during the adjustment procedure, stop the adjustments, and continue when the cooling fan stops.

8 When both idle speed and mixture are correctly set, stop the engine and disconnect the test equipment.

9 Fit a new tamperproof plug to the idle mixture adjustment screw, where this is required by law.

underside. If the distance measured exceeds, or is less than, that specified, the float weight is incorrect and the float must be renewed.

12 When the float level is known to be correct, reassemble the carburettor, using a new top cover gasket. Check the idle speed and mixture settings as described in Section 14.

13Using a pin punch, tap the float retaining pin from the base of the top cover, and lift out the float and needle valve.

14Inspect the components for damage, and renew as necessary. Check the needle valve for wear, and check the float for leaks by shaking it to see if it contains petrol.

15Clean the mating faces of the carburettor body and top cover.

Refitting

16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, remembering the following points.

17After refitting, check the float and needle valve for full and free movement.

18Use a new gasket between the top cover and the carburettor body.

19Ensure that all hoses, pipes and wires are correctly reconnected.

20On completion, check and if necessary top-up the coolant level, as described in Chapter 3, and check and if necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture, as described in Section 14.

Note: The diaphragm unit must be renewed in its entirety, as no spares are available

Testing

1 If a vacuum source incorporating a gauge is available, apply approximately 300 mbars (9 in Hg) to the diaphragm unit, at the hose nearest the carburettor body. Close off the vacuum source, and check that the vacuum is held. If there is a leak, rectify or renew the leaking component. Alternately, testing of a suspect vacuum unit must be by the substitution of a known good item.

Removal

2Remove the air cleaner, on early models. On later models, disconnect the air trunking from the air cleaner, then disconnect the vacuum pipe air breather hose from the air box. Extract the three securing screws and lift off the air box, complete with air trunking.

3Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the diaphragm unit.

4Prise the diaphragm operating rod balljoint from the secondary throttle valve linkage.

5On 1.6 and 1.8 litre models, remove the two securing screws and lift the vapour separator from the bracket. Move the vapour separator to one side, taking care not to strain the fuel hoses.

15.11 Measuring the float level “X”

4 If adjustment is necessary, release the clamp screw and turn the cam plate in the desired direction. Tighten the clamp screw,

and recheck the pump delivery (see illustration).

Removal

5 Proceed as described in Section 17, paragraphs 1 and 2.

6Thoroughly clean all external dirt from the area around the accelerator pump housing.

7Remove the four securing screws and lift off the accelerator pump cover. Recover the diaphragm, spring, valve retainer and valve. Note the orientation of the valve retainer.

Refitting

8 Clean the mating faces of the cover and housing.

9Check the condition of the valve, and renew if necessary.

10Begin refitting by locating the valve, valve retainer and spring in the housing. Note that the valve retainer can only be fitted in one position. The larger diameter of the spring should rest against the valve retainer.

11Locate the diaphragm on the housing, ensuring that the spring is correctly seated, and refit the cover. Tighten the cover securing

screws progressively to avoid distorting the diaphragm (see illustration).

12Further refitting is a reversal of removal.

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser will be required to check the idle speed and mixture on completion. If the coolant housing is removed, new O-rings will be required for refitting

Removal

1 Proceed as described in Section 17, paragraphs 1 and 2.

2Note the position of the bi-metal housing alignment marks as an aid to refitting, if necessary making additional marks for clarity, then remove the three securing screws and lift off the bi-metal housing. Place the housing to one side, taking care not to strain the coolant hoses or electric choke heater wiring.

3Remove the three screws securing the choke housing to the carburettor body, and withdraw the choke assembly, taking care not to bend the choke operating rod.

4If it is necessary to remove the bi-metal housing for renewal, continue as follows; otherwise go on to paragraph 8.

5Identify the automatic choke coolant hose locations as an aid to refitting, then disconnect the hoses. Be prepared for coolant spillage, and either plug the hoses, or secure them with their ends facing upwards, to prevent further loss of coolant.

6Disconnect the wiring from the electric choke heater, and withdraw the bi-metal housing.

7The coolant housing can be separated from the bi-metal housing by unscrewing the central securing bolt. Recover the O-rings from under the bolt head, and from the rim of the coolant housing.

Refitting

8 Begin refitting by locating the choke assembly on the carburettor body, ensuring that the lever on the choke assembly engages with the choke operating rod. Tighten the three securing screws.

9 Check and if necessary adjust the choke valve gap and the fast idle cam position, as described in paragraphs 15 to 19, of this Section.

14 Check and if necessary adjust the fast idle speed, as described in paragraphs 25 to 34, of this Section.

Adjustment

Choke valve gap

15With the bi-metal housing removed as described in paragraphs 2 to 4, of this Section, continue as follows.

16Press the choke operating lever fully clockwise, and retain it in position with a rubber band.

17Move the throttle lever to the fully open position, and measure the choke valve gap between the lower side of the choke plate and the wall of the primary barrel. Check that the gap is as given in the Specifications.

18If necessary, adjust the choke valve gap by bending the “adjuster segment (2)” If the gap is too small, enlarge gap “B”, by levering

with a screwdriver. If the gap is too large, decrease gap “B” using a pair of pliers (see illustration).

19If no further adjustments are to be carried out, refit the bi-metal housing, as described in paragraphs 10 to 14, of this Section.

19.18 Choke valve gap adjustment

1Choke operating lever

2Adjuster segment

B Choke valve gap

Fast idle cam position

20With the bi-metal housing removed, and the choke valve gap “ B” , correctly set, continue as follows.

21Open the throttle valve, then close the

choke valve using light finger pressure on the choke drive lever (see illustration). Close the

throttle valve.

22Check that the fast idle speed adjustment screw is resting against the stop on the second highest step of the fast idle cam.

23If adjustment is required, first check that the choke return spring is correctly positioned, then adjust by bending the adjustment lever.

24Refit the bi-metal housing, as described in paragraphs 10 to 14 of this Section.

19.21 Fast idle cam adjustment

1Fast idle cam

2Adjustment lever

3Choke drive lever

4Fast idle speed adjustment screw

adjustment, an an exhaust gas

required

25 Check the idle speed and mixture, as described in Section 14. The idle speed must be correct before attempting to check or adjust the fast idle speed.

26 With the engine at normal operating temperature, and a tachometer connected according to the equipment manufacturer’s instructions, continue as follows.

27Position the fast idle speed adjustment

screw on the second highest step of the fast idle cam (see illustration).

28Start the engine without touching the throttle pedal, and check that the fast idle speed is as specified. If adjustment is required, stop the engine and continue as follows.

29Remove the tamperproof cap from the fast idle speed adjustment screw, ensure that

no local or national laws are being broken by doing so (see illustration).

30Ensure that the adjustment screw is still resting on the second highest step of the fast idle cam, then start the engine, again without touching the throttle pedal.

31Turn the adjustment screw using a screwdriver, until the specified fast idle speed is obtained.

32If the cooling fan cuts in during the adjustment procedure, stop the adjustments, and continue when the cooling fan stops.

33On completion of adjustment, stop the engine and disconnect the tachometer.

34Fit a new tamperproof cap to the fast idle speed adjustment screw, where this is required by law.

Main diaphragm unit

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A new star clip must be used when refitting the diaphragm unit. Test vacuum units as described in Section 16, paragraph 1.

Removal

1 Proceed as described in Section 17, paragraphs 1 and 2.

2 Disconnect the diaphragm unit vacuum pipes.

3 Using a pin punch, tap out the roll pin securing the diaphragm unit to the carburettor top cover.

4 Note the position of the bi-metal housing alignment marks as an aid to refitting, if necessary making additional marks for clarity, then remove the three securing screws, and lift off the bi-metal housing. Place the housing to one side, taking care not to strain the coolant hoses or electric choke heater wiring.

5 Remove the three screws securing the choke assembly to the carburettor body. Allow the choke assembly to drop down, but do not disconnect the choke linkage.

6 Remove the star clip that secures the diaphragm unit to the carburettor top cover, and withdraw the diaphragm unit.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a new star clip to secure the diaphragm unit to the carburettor top cover. Before refitting the air box to the top of the carburettor, check and if necessary adjust the choke pull-down, as follows.

Vacuum pull-down

Adjustment

8With the air cleaner or air box removed from the top of the carburettor, as described in Section 17, paragraph 2, continue as follows.

9Note the position of the bi-metal housing alignment marks as an aid to refitting, if necessary making additional marks for clarity, then remove the three securing screws, and lift off the bi-metal housing. Place the housing to one side, taking care not to strain the coolant hoses or electric choke heater wiring.

10Position the fast idle speed adjustment screw on the highest step of the fast idle cam, and check that the choke valve is closed.

11Move the pull-down arm towards the diaphragm unit by pushing on the adjustment screw until resistance is felt. Hold the arm in this position.

12Using a drill shank of appropriate diameter, or a similar item, measure the clearance between the lower side of the choke plate and the wall of the primary barrel

(see illustrations). Check that the clearance is as given for the “ small” choke pull-down gap in the Specifications.

13 If adjustment is necessary, turn the adjustment screw in the appropriate direction, using an Allen key, until the clearance is correct.

14Now push the pull-down arm towards the diaphragm unit as far as its stop, and hold the arm in this position.

15As before measure the clearance between the lower side of the choke plate and the wall of the primary barrel. Check that the clearance is as given for the “ large” choke pull-down gap in the Specifications.

16If adjustment is necessary, turn the adjustment screw in the appropriate direction until the clearance is correct.

17Connect the bi-metal spring to the choke lever, position the bi-metal housing on the choke housing and loosely fit the securing screws. Align the marks on the bi-metal housing and the choke housing as noted during removal, then tighten the securing screws.

18Refit the air box to the top of the carburettor on completion.

Secondary pull-down solenoid

Removal

19This unit operates in conjunction with the main diaphragm unit.

20To remove the solenoid unit, first continue as described in Section 17, paragraphs 1 and

21Disconnect the diaphragm unit vacuum pipe.

solenoid securing screw and earth lead

22 Disconnect the wiring plug, then unscrew the securing screw, and withdraw the solenoid unit and its mounting bracket from the carburettor. Note that the securing screw

also secures the wiring plug earth lead (see illustration).

Refitting

23 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the wiring plug earth lead is in place under the solenoid bracket securing screw.

4A

Removal

1A small tubular filter gauze is fitted into the carburettor top cover’s fuel inlet union to remove any particles of dirt from the fuel.

2To ensure a clean fuel supply and to prevent the risk of misfiring, poor starting or other problems due to a restricted fuel supply, this filter must be cleaned and/or renewed at the interval specified in Chapter 1.

3To reach the filter, remove the air cleaner or air box, as applicable, then disconnect and plug the hose from the fuel pump or vapour separator to the top cover union.

4Remove the filter by hooking it out with a small screwdriver, or by snaring it with a long thin screw (3 mm thread size, screwed approximately 5 mm into the filter).

5If the filter is blocked or heavily fouled, or if it is torn, distorted or damaged in any way, it must be renewed. If it is fit for further use, clean it using a jet of compressed air or by brushing away particles of dirt with an old soft toothbrush. Then flushing it in clean solvent, taking care not to allow any overspray to get into your eyes; if petrol is used, take care to prevent the risk of fire.

Refitting

6 On refitting the filter, press it into the union until it catches (see illustration). The

remainder of the reassembly procedure is the reverse of removal.

1Remove the air cleaner or air box, refer to Section 3.

2Ensure that the lever (see illustration) is in

the idling position.

3 Slacken the locknut and unscrew the dashpot until a gap of 0.05 mm (0.002 in) exists between the lever and the dashpot tip. Then screw the dashpot downwards 2.5 full turns and tighten the locknut.

4 Refit all removed components.

Removal

1Disconnect the battery earth lead.

2Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor.

3Either unscrew the two securing screws and withdraw the sensor from its bracket, or unbolt the bracket.

Refitting

4 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points.

a)Install the sensor when the throttle valve is fully closed and ensure that the adapter, “1” (see illustration), seats correctly on the throttle valve spindle.

b)Tighten the screws carefully.

1Certain models are fitted with an idle speed increase valve that is attached to the side of the carburettor.

2To test the operation of this valve first remove the air filter and vacuum hose.

3With the valve’s plug connected, have someone turn the ignition on (but do not start the engine). A mechanical shifting noise should be heard. If not replace the unit.

4After refitting replace the vacuum hose and air filter.

25 Idle cut-off solenoid (1.8 litre 2 models) - description and

testing

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Description

1 On 1.8 litre models, the carburettor is fitted with an idle cut-off solenoid. This is an electrically operated valve, which interrupts the idle mixture circuit when the ignition is

switched off, thus preventing the engine from running-on (see illustration).

2 The idle cut-off solenoid is energised all the time that the ignition is switched on. A defective solenoid, or a break in its power supply, will cause the engine to stall or idle roughly, although it will run normally at speed.

Testing

3If the operation of the solenoid is suspect, first check that battery voltage is present at the solenoid terminal when the ignition is switched on. Use a 12 volt test lamp or similar test device.

4If no voltage is present, then the fault lies in the wiring to the solenoid. If voltage is present, the solenoid can be tested as follows.

5With the solenoid unscrewed from the carburettor, connect the body of the solenoid to the negative terminal of a 12 volt battery. When the battery positive terminal is connected to the solenoid centre terminal, there should be an audible click, and the needle at the tip of the solenoid should retract.

6A defective idle cut-off solenoid must be renewed.

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A new manifold gasket must be used on refitting

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Drain the cooling system, as described in Chapter 3.

3Proceed as described in Section 13, paragraphs 2 to 7 inclusive, ignoring the reference to coolant spillage in paragraph 5.

(arrowed) - 1.8 litre models

4Disconnect the coolant hose from the rear of the manifold (see illustration).

5Where applicable, disconnect the camshaft

cover breather hose from the rear of the manifold (see illustration).

6Unscrew the union and disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the manifold.

7On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models, disconnect the wiring from the temperature gauge sender.

8Unscrew and remove the top alternator mounting nut and bolt.

9On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models, disconnect and remove the stub hose that connects the crankcase breather tube to the rear of the camshaft housing.

10Make a final check to ensure that all relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been disconnected.

11Unscrew the securing nuts, and withdraw

the manifold from the cylinder head (see illustration). Note the position of the rear

engine lifting bracket, which is secured by one of the manifold nuts, and recover the manifold

26.4 Disconnecting the coolant hose . . .

gasket.

12It is possible that some of the manifold studs may be unscrewed from the cylinder head when the manifold securing nuts are unscrewed. In this event, the studs should be screwed back into the cylinder head once the manifold has been removed, using two manifold nuts locked together.

13If desired, the carburettor can be removed from the manifold, referring to Section 13, if necessary.

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, remembering the following points.

15If the carburettor has been removed from the manifold, refit it, using a new gasket.

16If the alternator mounting bracket has been unbolted from the manifold, refit it before refitting the manifold, as access to the securing bolt is extremely limited once the manifold is in place.

17Refit the manifold using a new gasket,

26.5 . . .and the camshaft cover breather hose (arrowed) from the inlet manifold - 1.6 litre model

and ensure that the engine lifting bracket is in place under the relevant manifold nut. Tighten the nuts to the specified torque.

18Ensure that all relevant hoses, pipes and wires are correctly reconnected.

19Refill the cooling system, as described in Chapter 3.

20Check the throttle cable free play and adjust if necessary, as described in Section

21If the carburettor has been disturbed, check and if necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture, as described in Section 14.

4A

Contents

Aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 Aerial mast, electric - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Airbag - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Airbag contact unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Airbag control unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 Airbag unit, drivers side - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Airbag unit, passengers side - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 Anti-theft alarm - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 Anti-theft alarm system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . .54 Bracket, passenger airbag unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .60 Brake lamp switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Central door locking components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .46 Check control system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . .21 Cigarette lighter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Clock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Courtesy lamp switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Direction indicator/lighting switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .5 Electric door mirror switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Electric window components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Electric window controls - programming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 Electrical fault-finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Exterior lamp bulbs - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Facia panel switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Front indicator lamp unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Front foglamp - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Fuses and relays - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Handbrake “on” warning lamp switch - removal and refitting . . . . . .13 Headlamp aim adjustment motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .26 Headlamp dim-dip system - general, removal and refitting . . . . . . . .28 Headlamp unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Headlamp washer fluid non-return valve - removal and refitting . . . .43

Warning: Before carrying out work on the electrical

system, read through the precautions given in “Safety

the beginning of this manual, and 5.

Caution: If the radio/cassette player fitted to the vehicle is one with an anti-theft security code, as the standard unit is, refer to “Radio/cassette player anti-theft system - precaution” in the Reference Section of this manual before disconnecting the battery.

2Electrical fault-finding - general information

Note: Refer to the precautions given in “Safety first!” (at the beginning of this manual) and to Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work. The following tests relate to testing of the main electrical circuits, and should not be used to test delicate electronic circuits (such as antilock braking systems), particularly where an electronic control module is used.

A typical electrical circuit consists of an electrical component, any switches, relays, motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers related to that component, and the wiring and connectors that link the component to both

the battery and the chassis. To help to pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit, wiring diagrams are included at the end of this Chapter.

Before attempting to diagnose an electrical fault, first study the appropriate wiring diagram, to obtain a complete understanding of the components included in the particular circuit concerned. The possible sources of a fault can be narrowed down by noting whether other components related to the circuit are operating properly. If several components or circuits fail at one time, the problem is likely to be related to a shared fuse or earth connection.

Electrical problems usually stem from simple causes, such as loose or corroded connections, a faulty earth connection, a blown fuse, a melted fusible link, or a faulty relay (refer to Section 3 for details of testing relays). Visually inspect the condition of all fuses, wires and connections in a problem circuit before testing the components. Use the wiring diagrams to determine which terminal connections will need to be checked, to pinpoint the trouble-spot.

The basic tools required for electrical faultfinding include the following:

a)a circuit tester or voltmeter (a 12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also be used for certain tests).

b)a self-powered test light (sometimes known as a continuity tester).

c)an ohmmeter (to measure resistance).

d)a battery.

e)a set of test leads.

f)a jumper wire, preferably with a circuit breaker or fuse incorporated, which can

be used to bypass suspect wires or electrical components.

Before attempting to locate a problem with test instruments, use the wiring diagram to determine where to make the connections.

To find the source of an intermittent wiring fault (usually due to a poor or dirty connection, or damaged wiring insulation), a “wiggle” test can be performed on the wiring. This involves wiggling the wiring by hand, to see if the fault occurs as the wiring is moved. It should be possible to narrow down the source of the fault to a particular section of wiring. This method of testing can be used in conjunction with any of the tests described in the following sub-Sections.

Apart from problems due to poor connections, two basic types of fault can occur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit, or short-circuit.

Open-circuit faults are caused by a break somewhere in the circuit, which prevents current from flowing. An open-circuit fault will prevent a component from working, but will not cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow.

Short-circuit faults are caused by a “short” somewhere in the circuit, which allows the current flowing in the circuit to “escape” along an alternative route, usually to earth. Shortcircuit faults are normally caused by a

breakdown in wiring insulation, which allows a feed wire to touch either another wire, or an earthed component such as the bodyshell. A short-circuit fault will normally cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow.

Finding an open-circuit

To check for an open-circuit, connect one lead of a circuit tester or voltmeter to either the negative battery terminal or a known good earth.

Connect the other lead to a connector in the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to the battery or fuse.

Switch on the circuit, remembering that some circuits are live only when the ignition switch is moved to a particular position.

If voltage is present (indicated either by the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as applicable), this means that the section of the circuit between the relevant connector and the battery is problem-free.

Continue to check the remainder of the circuit in the same fashion.

When a point is reached at which no voltage is present, the problem must lie between that point and the previous test point with voltage. Most problems can be traced to a broken, corroded or loose connection.

Finding a short-circuit

To check for a short-circuit, first disconnect the load(s) from the circuit (loads are the components that draw current from a circuit, such as bulbs, motors, heating elements, etc.).

Remove the relevant fuse from the circuit, and connect a circuit tester or voltmeter to the fuse connections.

Switch on the circuit, remembering that some circuits are live only when the ignition switch is moved to a particular position.

If voltage is present (indicated either by the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as applicable), this means that there is a shortcircuit.

If no voltage is present, but the fuse still blows with the load(s) connected, this indicates an internal fault in the load(s).

Finding an earth fault

The battery negative terminal is connected to “ earth” (the metal of the engine/transmission and the car body), and most systems are wired so that they only receive a positive feed. The current returning through the metal of the car body. This means that the component mounting and the body form part of that circuit. Loose or corroded mountings can therefore cause a range of electrical faults, ranging from total failure of a circuit, to a puzzling partial fault. In particular, lights may shine dimly (especially when another circuit sharing the same earth point is in operation). Motors (e.g. wiper motors or the radiator cooling fan motor) may run slowly, and the operation of one circuit may have an affect on another. Note that on many vehicles, earth straps are used between certain components, such as the engine/transmission and the body, usually where there is no metal-

3.2Main fuses and relays in facia panel -

2.0litre SRi model shown

to-metal contact between components, due to flexible rubber mountings, etc.

To check whether a component is properly earthed, disconnect the battery, and connect one lead of an ohmmeter to a known good earth point. Connect the other lead to the wire or earth connection being tested. The resistance reading should be zero; if not, check the connection as follows.

If an earth connection is thought to be faulty, dismantle the connection, and clean back to bare metal both the bodyshell and the wire terminal or the component earth connection mating surface. Be careful to remove all traces of dirt and corrosion, then use a knife to trim away any paint, so that a clean metal-to-metal joint is made. On reassembly, tighten the joint fasteners securely; if a wire terminal is being refitted, use serrated washers between the terminal and the bodyshell, to ensure a clean and secure connection. When the connection is remade, prevent the onset of corrosion in the future by applying a coat of petroleum jelly or silicone-based grease.

3 Fuses and relays - general

Fuses

1Fuses are designed to break a circuit when a predetermined current is reached, to protect the components and wiring which could be damaged by excessive current flow. Any excessive current flow will be due to a fault in the circuit, usually a short-circuit (Section 2).

2The main fuses and relays are located in a

panel at the lower right-hand side of the facia, under a hinged cover (see illustration).

3The circuits protected by the various fuses and relays are marked on the inside of the panel cover.

4A blown fuse can be recognised from its melted or broken wire.

5To remove a fuse, first ensure that the relevant circuit is switched off. Then open the

cover and pull the relevant fuse or relay from the panel (see illustration). If desired, the lower

end of the panel can be tilted forwards, after releasing the retaining clips to improve access.

2.0 litre model shown

6Before renewing a blown fuse, trace and rectify the cause, and always use a fuse of the correct rating. Never substitute a fuse of a higher rating, or make temporary repairs using wire or metal foil, as more serious damage or even fire could result.

7Spare fuses are provided in the blank terminal positions in the fusebox.

8Note that the fuses are colour-coded, see Specifications. Refer to the wiring diagrams for details of the fuse ratings and the circuits protected.

Relays

9A relay is an electrically operated switch, which is used for the following reasons:

a)A relay can switch a heavy current remotely from the circuit in which the current is flowing, allowing the use of lighter-gauge wiring and switch contacts.

b)A relay can receive more than one control input, unlike a mechanical switch.

c)A relay can have a timer function - for example, the intermittent wiper relay.

10Most of the relays are located at the rear of the main fusebox (remove the securing screws and pull the fusebox forwards to improve access). The rear wiper motor relay is located in the tailgate, behind the tailgate trim panel. On some models, additional enginerelated relays are located in the relay box mounted on the left-hand side of the engine compartment.

11On certain models, additional relays are

located in a box at the left-hand rear of the engine compartment (see illustration).

12If a circuit or system controlled by a relay develops a fault, and the relay is suspect, operate the system. If the relay is functioning, it should be possible to hear it “click” as it is energised. If this is the case, the fault lies with the components or wiring of the system. If the relay is not being energised, then either the relay is not receiving a main supply or a switching voltage, or the relay itself is faulty. Testing is by the substitution of a known good unit, but be careful - while some relays are identical in appearance and in operation, others look similar but perform different functions.

13To remove a relay, first ensure that the relevant circuit is switched off. The relay can then simply be pulled out from the socket, and pushed back into position.

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Turn the steering wheel as necessary to expose the two front steering column shroud securing screws, which are covered by plastic caps. Prise out the caps and remove the screws.

3Remove the three securing screws from the underside of the lower column shroud, then remove both the upper and lower shrouds.

4To remove the lock cylinder, insert the ignition key and turn it to position “II”.

5Insert a thin rod into the hole in the lock housing, then press the rod to release the detent spring, and pull out the lock cylinder using the key.

6The ignition switch is secured to the steering lock housing by two grub screws.

Disconnect the wiring plug, and remove the screws to extract the switch (see illustration).

Removal of the steering wheel, may aid removal. Refer to Chapter 10 or Section 57, as applicable. It is recommended that the switch and the lock cylinder are not both removed at the same time, so that their mutual alignment is not lost.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

12

screw

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Turn the steering wheel as necessary to expose the two front steering column shroud securing screws, which are covered by plastic caps. Prise out the caps and remove the screws.

3Remove the three securing screws from underside of the lower column shroud, remove both the upper and lower shrouds.

4Disconnect the wiring plug from the switch.

5Depress the switch retaining clip, and withdraw the switch from the housing.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

6Wash/wipe switch - removal 2 and refitting

Proceed as described in Section 5.

Removal

2Turn the switch to the “ dipped beam on” position, then insert a small screwdriver or rod through the hole in the bottom of the switch

knob to depress the knob retaining clip. Pull the knob from the switch (see illustration).

3Press the two now-exposed switch securing clips towards the switch spindle,

then pull the switch from the facia and disconnect the wiring plug (see illustrations).

4Note that the switch assembly cannot be dismantled, and if any part of the switch is faulty, the complete assembly must be renewed.

lightning switch knob retaining clip

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Push-button switches

Removal

6 First check beneath the switch, if there is a small hole in the facia, insert a slim screwdriver or metal rod into it. Release the switch retaining spring clip by pressing it upwards against the switch, then remove the switch and disconnect its wiring. If there is no hole, remove the switch by prising it out of the facia using a small screwdriver. Lever gently under the switch’s lower edge (use adhesive tape or a piece of card to protect the facia’s

finish). Disconnect the switch wiring plug and withdraw the switch (see illustration).

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Headlamp aim adjustment switch

8 The procedure is as described for pushbutton switches.

Hazard warning switch

Removal

9Using a screwdriver, carefully prise the cap from the switch (see illustration).

10Using a screwdriver with a piece of card under the blade to avoid damage to the facia trim, prise the ventilation nozzle from the facia.

11Prise the switch from the facia and disconnect the wiring (see illustration).

7.3A Press the switch securing clips towards the switch spindle . . .

7

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Heater blower motor switch

Removal

13 Remove the heater control panel, as described in Chapter 11.

14 Disconnect the wiring plug from the switch, if not already done.

15 Prise the switch out from the rear of the heater control panel.

Refitting

16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but refer to Chapter 11, when refitting the heater control panel.

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Prise the plastic surround from the door interior handle.

3Free the trim panel from the top edge of the door by releasing the securing clips. This can be done using a screwdriver, but it is preferable to use a forked tool, to minimise the possibility of damage to the trim panel and the clips.

4Note the position of the mirror switch wiring connector in the bracket at the top of the door, then separate the two halves of the connector.

5Prise the switch from the door trim panel, and feed the wiring through the panel.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the wiring is correctly routed, so as not to foul the door interior handle mechanism.

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Prise the courtesy lamp from the roof trim panel, and disconnect the wiring.

3Remove the two trim panel securing screws, and withdraw the trim panel from the roof, disconnecting the wiring from the sunroof operating switch.

4Release the securing clips, then pull the switch from the rear face of the trim panel.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

11 Luggage compartment lamp 2 switch - removal and refitting

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Open the boot lid or tailgate, as applicable, and remove the switch securing screw.

3Withdraw the switch from the body panel, and pull the wiring out sufficiently to prevent it from springing back into the body.

4Disconnect the wiring and remove the switch.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Remove the lower trim panel from the driver’s footwell.

3Disconnect the wiring plug from the brake

lamp switch, then twist the switch anti-clockwise and remove it from its bracket.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

For access to the switch, the handbrake lever must be removed. Removal and refitting of the switch is described as part of the handbrake lever removal and refitting procedure, in Chapter 9.

3 To remove the cigarette lighter assembly, simply pull it from the illumination ring assembly. If desired, the illumination ring assembly can be removed, by pulling it from the housing after depressing the retaining clips.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

16 Clock - removal and refitting

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, carefully prise the clock from the facia panel.

3Disconnect the wiring plugs and withdraw the clock (see illustration).

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

17 Heated front seats - general 2

Heating pads are fitted to the front seats of some models. Before attempting to remove a seat so equipped, disconnect the battery and the leads from the heating pad.

securing screw

the clock

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Remove the steering wheel, (Chapter 10).

3Remove the steering column shrouds, and the instrument panel upper and lower trim panels, (Chapter 11).

4Remove the single upper, and two lower, instrument panel securing screws (see illustration).

5Carefully withdraw the instrument panel, and disconnect the speedometer cable and the two wiring plugs. Note that the speedometer cable is retained by a clip, which

must be pressed towards the speedometer to release the cable (see illustration).

wiring plug. Note speedometer cable retaining clip (arrowed)

6 If desired, the instrument panel can be dismantled, with reference to Section 19.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the speedometer cable is not kinked or twisted between the instrument panel and the bulkhead as the panel is refitted.

1 With the instrument panel removed, as described in Section 18, continue as follows.

Panel illumination and warning lamp bulbs

Removal

2 Twist the relevant bulbholder clockwise, and withdraw it from the printed circuit board

on the rear of the instrument panel (see illustration).

3 The bulbs are integral with the bulbholders, and must be renewed as a unit.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Voltage stabiliser

Removal

5 Remove the single securing screw from the rear of the instrument panel, then pull the

voltage stabiliser from the contacts on the printed circuit board (see illustration).

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Fuel and temperature gauges - “low series” models

Removal

7Pull the trip meter reset pin from the front of the panel.

8Release the two retaining clips at the top of the panel, and remove the panel shroud (see illustration).

9Unscrew the two securing nuts, and withdraw the relevant gauge through the front of the instrument panel.

(arrowed)

20 Trip computer components - 2 removal and refitting

1 Disconnect the battery lead.

Display module

Removal

2Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, carefully prise the module from the facia panel.

3Disconnect the wiring plug and withdraw the module.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Display module illumination bulb

Removal

5Remove the display module, as described previously in this Section.

6Using a length of rubber sleeving of similar diameter, or an alternator tool, extract the

bulb by inserting the tool through the hole in the side of the display module (see illustration).

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Operating switch

Removal

8 Remove the rear section of the centre console, as described in Chapter 11.

9 Release the wiring plug from the switch using a screwdriver.

10 Lift the switch, then pull it down and out from the centre console.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Outside air temperature sensor

Removal

12The sensor is located at the left-hand end of the front bumper (see illustration).

13Prise the cover cap from the bumper, then unclip the sensor, and disconnect the wiring plug.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Warning lamp bulbs

2 The warning lamp bulbs are located in the instrument panel, and removal and refitting are described in Section 19.

Control module

Removal

3The control module is located behind the passenger side of the facia, above the glovebox.

4Remove the glovebox assembly, as described in Chapter 11.

5Disconnect the control module wiring plug, then release the control module from its mounting and withdraw the unit.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Coolant level sensor

Removal

7The coolant level sensor is integral with the coolant expansion tank cap.

8Disconnect the wiring from the top of the cap, then unscrew the cap and withdraw it from the expansion tank.

9If faulty, the complete cap assembly must be renewed.

Refitting

10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Washer fluid level sensor

Removal

11The sensor is mounted in the side of the fluid reservoir.

12Disconnect the wiring from the sensor, then unscrew the sensor from the fluid reservoir. If the fluid level is above the level of the sensor, be prepared for fluid spillage.

Refitting

13 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

12

20.12 Trip computer outside air temperature sensor location (arrowed)

Brake fluid level sensor

14 The procedure is as described for the coolant level sensor in paragraphs 7 to 10 inclusive.

23 Reach up behind the fuse/relay panel, and pull the sensor from its socket.

Refitting

24 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Engine oil level sensor

Removal

15 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of

the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands (see “ Jacking and Vehicle Support” )

positioned under the body side members.

16On DOHC models, remove the engine undershield, as described in Chapter 11.

17Disconnect the sensor wiring plug.

18Unscrew the three or four sensor securing screws, as applicable, and withdraw the

sensor, manipulating the float through the hole in the sump (see illustration). Recover the

sealing ring. Be prepared for some oil spillage. 19 Examine the condition of the sealing ring, and renew if necessary.

Refitting

20 Refitting is a reversal of removal. On completion, check, and if necessary top-up, the engine oil level.

Bulb failure sensor

Removal

21The bulb failure sensor is mounted behind the fuse/relay panel in the facia.

22Release the retaining clips from the lower end of the fuse/relay panel, and tilt it forwards.

22 Horn(s) - removal and refitting 2

1 On models with a single horn, the horn is located in front of the radiator. On models with twin horns, the horns are located beneath the washer fluid reservoir, at the left-hand end of the front bumper.

Single horn

Removal

2Disconnect the battery negative lead.

3Remove the radiator grille panel, with reference to Chapter 11.

4Disconnect the wiring from the rear of the horn.

5Reach up behind the mounting bracket, and

unscrew the single nut securing the horn to the bracket (see illustration). Withdraw the horn.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Twin horns

Removal

7Disconnect the battery negative lead.

8Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front

of the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands (see “ Jacking and Vehicle Support” )

positioned under the body side members.

9Remove the securing screws, and withdraw the plastic cover (where fitted) from the bumper/front wing to expose the horns.

10Remove the bolt securing the horn

mounting bracket to the bracket below the washer fluid reservoir (see illustration).

11Withdraw the horns and disconnect the wiring.

12If desired, the horns can be unbolted from the bracket.

Refitting

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, prise the

lamp from its location and disconnect the wiring (see illustration).

Refitting

3 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

24 Interior lamp bulbs - renewal 1

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Courtesy lamp

Note: Some later models are fitted with courtesy lamps for the rear seat passengers, as well as front.

Removal

2Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, prise the lamp from its location and disconnect the wiring.

3On models fitted with a courtesy lamp with integral map reading lamps, the lens must be levered from the housing for access to the bulbs.

24.10 Removing the underbonnet lamp bulb

4 Remove the courtesy lamp bulbs by carefully prising it from its location using a thin-bladed screwdriver. Where applicable, the map reading lamp bulbs are a push fit in the bulbholders.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Glovebox lamp

Removal

6Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, prise the lamp from its location and disconnect the wiring.

7Carefully prise the bulb from the lamp.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

securing screw

25.5B Unscrewing an upper headlamp securing screw

lamp bulbholder

Luggage compartment, underbonnet and kerb lamps

Removal

9Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, prise the lamp from its location; disconnect the wiring.

10Carefully prise the bulb from the lamp

(see illustration).

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal

Cigarette lighter illumination lamp

Removal

12 Slide the ashtray/cigarette lighter assembly from the facia, then disconnect the wiring and pull the bulbholder from the rear of the cigarette lighter housing.

13The bulb is a push fit in the bulbholder.

Refitting

14Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Clock illumination lamp

15Remove the clock, (Section 16).

16Twist the bulbholder and pull it from the rear of the clock (see illustration).

17The bulb is a push fit in the bulbholder.

Trip computer display module illumination lamp

18 Refer to Section 20.

Heater control panel illumination lamp

Removal

19 Remove the heater control panel, as described in Chapter 11.

24.20 Heater control panel illumination lamp bulbholder withdrawn

20Pull the bulbholder from the rear of the control panel (see illustration).

21The bulb is a push fit in the bulbholder.

Refitting

22 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Facia panel switch illumination lamp

23 If a bulb fails in one of the facia panel switches, the complete switch assembly must be renewed, as described in Section 7, as no individual spare parts are available.

Vanity mirror illumination lamp

Removal

24 Lower the sunvisor and, using a thin-bladed screwdriver, prise out the mirror and diffuser assembly. Pull the bulb(s) from the spring contacts.

Refitting

25 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

alignment checked, with reference to Section 27.

Removal

1Remove the headlamp, (Section 25).

2Twist the motor clockwise to release it from

the headlamp, then carefully disconnect the motor from the balljoint (see illustrations).

Refitting

3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but that the motor is correctly engaged with balljoint.

1Correct alignment of the headlamp beams is most important, not only to ensure good vision for the driver, but also to protect other drivers from being dazzled.

2Accurate alignment should be carried out using optical beam setting equipment.

3In an emergency, adjustments may be

made by turning the adjustment screws shown (see illustrations). If an adjustment is

made, the alignment should be checked using beam setting equipment at the earliest opportunity.

4 All 1992-on models are fitted with the headlamp aim adjustment system, operated

through the facia-mounted switch (see illustration).

a)Position ‘0’, is for correct alignment if just the driving seat is occupied.

b)Position ‘1’, if all seats are occupied.

c)Position ‘2’, if all seats occupied and luggage.

d)Position ‘3’, for just driver and luggage.

General

1The system (where fitted) is governed by the dim-dip control unit mounted either behind and above the glovebox (early models), or behind the main fuse panel (later models).

2The control unit uses the oil pressure warning lamp circuit to ensure that, when the

- 1992-on models

engine is running and the sidelamps are switched on, reduced current is fed to the headlamp dipped-beam circuits. This lights the headlamps with approximately one-sixth of their normal power so that the vehicle cannot be driven using sidelamps alone.

3 To locate the dim-dip control unit, open the main fuse panel covering flap and unclip it from its bottom and top mountings (Section 3). Then use a torch to see whether the unit is fastened to the plastic bracket behind the facia and fuse panel. The unit is usually rectangular, of black plastic, and can be identified by the colours of the five wires leading to it (see applicable wiring diagram).

Removal

4If the unit can be seen, remove the driver’s side lower facia and footwell trim panels (Chapter 11), then unscrew the four retaining screws and lower the plastic bracket until the control unit can be detached.

5If the unit cannot be seen, remove the glovebox assembly (Chapter 11). The unit will be fastened to the underside of the facia top surface.

Refitting

6 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

30 Side repeater lamp - removal 2 and refitting

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Remove the wheel arch liner, as described in Chapter 11.

3Working in the engine compartment, disconnect the wiring plug, and detach the earth lead from the body panel.

4Working under the wheel arch, depress the retaining tabs and manipulate the lamp through the outside of the wing, pulling the wiring and the grommet from the inner wing panel.

5The lens can be removed from the lamp by twisting it to release the retaining clips.

6Check the condition of the rubber sealing ring, and renew if necessary.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

33 Number plate lamp - removal 2 and refitting

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, carefully prise the lamp surround from the bumper.

3Pull the lamp from the bumper, and disconnect the wiring.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

34 Exterior lamp bulbs - renewal 1

Note: The glass envelopes of the headlamp and foglamp bulbs must not be touched with the fingers. If the glass is accidentally touched, it should be washed with methylated spirits and dried with a soft cloth. Failure to observe this procedure may result in premature bulb failure

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

34.3A Release the spring clip . . .

3 Pull the wiring plug from the base of the bulb, then release the spring clip, grasp the bulb by

its contacts and carefully withdraw it (see illustrations). Do not touch the bulb glass.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Sidelamps

Removal

5 Working in the engine compartment, release the retaining clip, and remove the cover from the rear of the headlamp.

6 Pull the wiring plug from the bulbholder,

then pull the bulbholder from the headlamp

(see illustration).

7 The bulb is a push fit in the bulbholder (see illustration).

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

bulbholder

Front indicator lamp

Removal

9 Working in the engine compartment, disconnect the wiring plug from the bulbholder.

10Twist the bulbholder anti-clockwise, and pull it from the lamp unit (see illustration).

11The bulb is a bayonet fit in the bulbholder

(see illustration).

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Front indicator side repeater lamp

Removal

13Twist the lamp lens anti-clockwise, and pull it from the lamp.

14The bulb is a push fit in the lamp (see illustration).

34.10 Withdraw the front indicator lamp bulbholder (lamp removed) . . .

headlamp . . .

Refitting

15 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the rubber sealing ring is correctly seated between the lens and the body panel.

Front foglamp

Removal

16 To improve access, apply the handbrake,

jack up the front of the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands (see “ Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned under the body

side members.

17 Remove the securing screws, and withdraw the plastic cover (driver’s side only) from the bumper/front wing to expose the foglamp.

18Remove the security screw, and withdraw the cover from the base of the lamp (see illustration).

19Release the spring clip, using a screwdriver if necessary, then grasp the bulb

by its contacts and carefully withdraw it. Do not touch the bulb glass (see illustration).

20Pull the wiring plug from the base of the bulb.

Refitting

21 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Rear lamp unit

Removal

22 Working in the luggage compartment, remove the cover from the rear of the lamp. 23 Release the top and bottom retaining clips, and pull the bulbholder from the lamp,

number plate lamp . . .

taking care not to strain the wiring (see illustration).

24 The bulbs are a bayonet fit in the bulbholder (see illustration). Note that the brake/tail lamp

bulb has offset bayonet pins so that it can only be fitted in one position; ensure that the correct type of replacement is obtained.

Refitting

25 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Rear number plate lamp

Removal

26Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, carefully prise the lamp surround from the bumper.

27Pull the lamp from the bumper, taking

care not to strain the wiring, and unclip the lens (see illustration).

28The bulb is a bayonet fit in the lamp (see illustration).

Refitting

29 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Removal

1The wiper blades should be renewed when they no longer clean the glass effectively.

2Lift the wiper arm away from the glass. On some models it may be more convenient to do this with the bonnet open.

3With the blade at 90° to the arm, depress

the spring clip and slide the blade from the hook (see illustration).

4If necessary, extract the two metal inserts and unhook the wiper rubber.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but where applicable, make sure that the cut-outs in the metal inserts securing the rubber to the blade face each other.

Windscreen and rear window wipers

Removal

1 The wiper motor should be in its parked position before removing the wiper arm. Mark the position of the blade on the glass with adhesive tape as a guide to refitting.

2Lift the hinged covers, and remove the nuts and washers securing the arms to the spindles.

3Prise the arms from the spindles, using a screwdriver if necessary. Take care not to damage the paintwork.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Note that the passenger side wiper arm is longer than that fitted to the driver’s side. Ensure that the arms are fitted to their correct locations, as incorrect installation can cause the blades to

foul one another when being used (see illustration).

Headlamp wipers

5 The procedure is as described in paragraphs 1 to 4, but the washer hose must be disconnected from the stub on the body panel.

motor/linkage assembly securing bolts . .

38.5B . . . then withdraw the assembly

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Remove the wiper arm, as described in Section 36.

3Remove the headlamp, as described in Section 25.

4Disconnect the motor wiring plug.

5Unscrew the two bolts securing the motor

mounting bracket to the body panel, then withdraw the motor (see illustrations).

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

39

spindle rubber seal must engage with notch in drive spindle

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Models without headlamp wash

Removal

2 Disconnect the wiring from the washer pump.

3Disconnect the washer fluid hose from the pump. Be prepared for fluid spillage.

4Remove the screw(s) securing the reservoir to the body, and withdraw the reservoir.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Models with headlamp wash

Removal

6 On models with headlamp wash, the reservoir is in two sections, the upper section, which can be removed from the engine compartment, and the lower section, which must be removed from under the wheel arch.

7Disconnect the wiring from the headlamp wash non-return valve in the top of the reservoir.

8Disconnect the washer fluid hoses from the non-return valve. Be prepared for fluid spillage.

9Remove the screw securing the upper section of the reservoir to the wing panel.

10Loosen the plastic collar securing the upper section of the reservoir to the lower section, then withdraw the upper section of the reservoir from the engine compartment.

11To remove the lower section of the reservoir, continue as follows.

12Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle, and support on axle

stands (see “ Jacking and Vehicle Support” ) positioned under the body side members.

13 Remove the securing screws, and withdraw the plastic cover from the

bumper/front wing to expose the lower section of the reservoir.

14Remove the horns, (Section 22).

15Remove the wheel arch liner, (Chapter 11).

16Disconnect the wiring and the fluid hoses from the washer pump. Be prepared for fluid spillage.

17Unscrew the bolts securing the horn/reservoir support bracket and the

reservoir to the body, then withdraw the bracket and the reservoir (see illustration).

Refitting

18 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Models without headlamp wash

Removal

2 Disconnect the wiring and the fluid hose from the pump. Be prepared for fluid spillage. 3 Pull the pump from the reservoir, being prepared for fluid spillage if the reservoir still contains fluid.

4 Examine the condition of the sealing grommet, and renew if necessary, and clean the gauze filter at the end of the pump pick-up tube.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Models with headlamp wash

6Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle, and support on axle stands positioned under the body side members.

7Remove the securing screws, and withdraw the plastic cover from the bumper/front wing to expose the lower section of the fluid reservoir.

8Remove the wheel arch liner, (Chapter 11).

9Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 5 inclusive.

Removal

1The valve is located on a bracket attached

to the upper section of the washer fluid reservoir (see illustration).

2Disconnect the battery negative lead.

3Disconnect the wiring and the fluid hoses from the valve. Be prepared for fluid spillage.

4Remove the screw securing the valve bracket to the reservoir, and withdraw the valve.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

44Electric window components 3

- removal and refitting

Note: Whenever any of the electric window components are removed, after refitting the components, the electric window controls must be programmed, as described in Section 45.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Rear door-mounted switches

Removal

2 Prise the plastic surround from the door interior handle.

3 Carefully prise the switch from its location, and disconnect the wiring plug.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make 12 sure that the wiring is routed so that it does

not foul the electric window or lock operating components.

Centre console-mounted switches

Removal

5 The switches must be removed as a complete assembly, and cannot be dismantled. If one of the switches is faulty, the complete assembly must be renewed.

6 Remove the rear section of the centre console, as described in Chapter 11.

7 Release the securing clips, and withdraw the switch assembly through the top of the centre console.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Operating motors

9 Remove the door window regulator, described in Chapter 11.

10To remove the motor assembly from front door window regulator, unscrew three motor securing nuts, and the single screw securing the pulse pick-up unit to the regulator assembly. Withdraw the motor, complete with the pulse pick-up unit. Note that if the motor or pick-up unit is/are faulty,

the two components must be renewed as an assembly, as no spare parts are available (see illustration).

11The motor assembly fitted to the rear door window regulator is an integral part of the regulator, and no attempt should be made at dismantling. If faulty, the complete motor/regulator assembly must be renewed, as no spares are available.

1Whenever the battery is disconnected, or any of the electric window components are removed, on completion of work, the electric window controls must be programmed as follows.

2Close all doors, and switch on the ignition.

3Close one of the windows by pressing the relevant operating switch. Press and hold the switch for a further five seconds after the relevant window has fully closed.

44.10 Front door electric window motor securing nuts and pulse pick-up securing screw (arrowed)

4 Repeat the procedure for the remaining window(s).

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Electronic control module

Removal

2 The module is mounted in the driver’s footwell, behind the side trim panel.

3 Remove the driver’s footwell side trim panel, as described in Chapter 11.

4Unscrew the two securing nuts, and lift the module from the body panel (see illustration).

5Depress the retaining clip to release the wiring plug, then withdraw the module.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Operating switch

Removal

7 The operating switch takes the form of a microswitch, mounted inside the door at the rear of the exterior handle assembly.

8 Remove the door inner trim panel, as described in Chapter 11.

9 Peel back the plastic insulating sheet sufficiently to gain access to the exterior handle.

10 Unclip the microswitch from the rear edge of the exterior handle assembly, and disconnect the switch wiring plug from the

door wiring harness, then withdraw the switch

(see illustration).

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Door lock operating motor

Removal

12Remove the door lock, as described in Chapter 11.

13Disconnect the lock operating rod from the motor.

14Remove the two securing screws, and withdraw the motor from the lock assembly.

Refitting

15 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Tailgate/boot lid lock operating motor

Removal

16 On Hatchback models, extract the securing screws and remove the rear tailgate trim panel.

17Remove the two securing screws, and manipulate the motor to disconnect the lock operating rod.

18Withdraw the motor and disconnect the wiring plug (see illustration).

Refitting

19 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Fuel filler flap lock operating motor

Removal

20Remove the right-hand rear quarter trim panels, as described in Chapter 11.

21Disconnect the wiring plug from the rear of the motor (see illustration).

Always clean the aerial mast in an upwards direction. This should minimise dirt being forced down, into the mast sections.

Removal

1The mast on “factory fitted”, fully automatic electric aerials, can be replaced separately.

2Extend the aerial as far as possible, by switching on the radio.

3Unscrew the mounting nut.

4Pull the sprung sleeve upwards and clear of its base.

5The assembly can now be removed from the clutch mechanism, by pulling the assembly upwards.

Refitting

base, guide the remaining mast into the base by hand.

10Insert the sprung sleeve into the base and tighten the mounting nut.

11Check the aerial works properly by turning the radio on and off a few times.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Facia-mounted speaker

Removal

2Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, carefully prise the speaker from the top of the facia

panel. Take care not to damage the facia trim

(see illustration)

3Disconnect the wiring and withdraw the speaker. If desired, the plastic trim panel can be unclipped from the top of the speaker.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Front door-mounted speaker

Removal

speaker - wiring plug arrowed

6 Remove the three securing screws, and

withdraw the speaker from the door. Disconnect the wiring plug (see illustration).

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but note that the speaker can only be fitted one way up, so that the lug on the bottom of the speaker rim engages with the corresponding hole in the door skin.

Rear speaker - Hatchback models

Removal

8Remove the upper rear quarter trim panel, as described in Chapter 11.

9Remove the four securing screws, and withdraw the speaker.

Refitting

10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Rear speaker Saloon models

Removal

11Carefully prise the trim cover from the parcel shelf, to expose the speaker.

12Remove the four securing screws, withdraw the speaker and disconnect the wiring.

Refitting

13 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Removal

1All the radio/cassette players fitted to the Cavalier range have DIN standard fixings. Two special tools, obtainable from in-car entertainment specialists, are required for removal.

2Disconnect the battery negative lead.

3Unscrew the four grub screws from the

corners of the radio cassette player, using an Allen key or hexagon bit (see illustration).

4Insert the tools into the holes exposed by removal of the grub screws, and push them

until they snap into place. Pull the tools outwards to release the unit (see illustration).

5Pull the unit forwards, and withdraw it from the facia.

Refitting

6 To refit the radio/cassette player, simply push the unit into the facia until the retaining lugs snap into place, then refit the grub screws.

Removal

1Ensure that the sunroof is fully closed.

2Disconnect the battery negative lead.

3Prise the courtesy lamp from the roof trim panel, and disconnect the wiring.

4Remove the two trim panel securing screws, and withdraw the trim panel from the roof, disconnecting the wiring from the sunroof operating switch.

5Disconnect the wiring plugs from the motor.

6Unscrew the securing nut, and withdraw the motor assembly.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

52 Speedometer cable - removal 3 and refitting

Removal

1Remove the instrument panel, as described in Section 18.

2Pull the cable through the bulkhead into the engine compartment, noting its routing.

3Working in the engine compartment, unscrew the securing sleeve and disconnect

the speedometer cable from the top of the transmission (see illustration).

4The cable can now be withdrawn from the vehicle, noting its routing so that it can be refitted in the same position.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring that the cable is correctly routed. Make sure that the cable is not kinked or twisted between the instrument panel and the bulkhead as the instrument panel is refitted. Note that the cable should be routed to the right of the steering column support bracket.

53 Anti-theft alarm - general

1Certain models are fitted with an anti-theft alarm as standard equipment.

2The alarm system is triggered by door, bonnet and boot lid/tailgate mounted

switches, and by ultrasonic sensors mounted inside the passenger compartment (see illustration).

3The alarm features a self-diagnostic function, and any faults should be referred to a Vauxhall dealer, who will have access to the necessary specialist diagnostic equipment.

Control unit

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Remove the driver’s side lower facia panel as described in Chapter 11.

3If necessary, remove the footwell side trim panel as described in Chapter 11.

4 Undo the control unit retaining bolt, disconnect the wiring plug and remove the unit from its location.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Ultrasonic sensor

6Disconnect the battery negative lead.

7Remove the centre body pillar trim panel as described in Chapter 11.

8Carefully release the ultrasonic sensor trim panel and withdraw it downwards.

9Release the ultrasonic sensor from its location, disconnect the wiring plug and remove the unit from the car.

Refitting

10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Bonnet contact unit

Removal

11Disconnect the battery negative lead.

12Using a screwdriver, depress the catch at the base of the contact unit and withdraw the contact from its location.

13Disconnect the contact wiring and remove the unit.

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

55 Airbag - general

Before starting any airbag or related

disconnect the Cover the battery’s

and wait a minimum of 1 as a precaution against

firing of the airbag unit. This that any stored energy in

-up capacitor is dissipated. airbag unit with extreme care

against personal injury, hold it with the cover facing the body. If in doubt

any proposed work involving unit or its control circuitry,

Vauxhall dealer or other specialist.

warning at the Section 55, before

Stand the unit with the uppermost and do not

it to heat sources in

of 100ºC. Do not attempt repair the airbag unit, or apply

to it. Do not use any airbag is visibly damaged or has been

with.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Note: Read warning at the beginning of Section 55, before starting work. A two-legged puller will be required for this operation. Note also that the steering wheel is a very tight fit on the shaft.

Removal

1 Remove the airbag unit as described previously.

2 Ensure that the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position.

3 From the centre of the steering wheel unscrew the two screws securing the contact unit.

56.3 Airbag, steering wheel and contact unit details

58 Airbag contact unit - removal 4 and refitting

Note: Read warning at the beginning of

Section 55, before starting work.

Removal

1Remove the airbag and the steering wheel as described previously.

2Remove the steering column upper and lower shrouds, referring to Chapter 10, if necessary.

3Disconnect the contact unit wiring plug below the steering column and withdraw the

contact unit from the column, noting its fitted position as a guide to reassembly (see illustration).

Refitting

4Before refitting the contact unit, ensure that the front wheels are in the straight-ahead position.

5Place the contact unit on the column in the correct position as noted during removal.

6Route the wiring harness under the steering column lock/ignition switch and connect the wiring plug.

7Refit the steering column shrouds.

8Refit the steering wheel and airbag as described previously.

Note: Read warning at the beginning of

Section 55, before starting work.

Removal

1Disconnect the battery, cover the terminals and wait at least 1 minute.

2Remove the glovebox assembly. Refer to Chapter 11, for further details if necessary.

3Remove the right hand ventilation air duct.

4Disconnect the plug connections.

5Unbolt the six M6 nuts from the two side brackets.

6Remove the airbag unit (see illustration).

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Note: Read warning at the beginning of Section 55, before starting work. This process involves removal of the windscreen, refer to Chapter 11, before starting work.

Removal

1Remove the passenger side airbag unit as described in Section 59.

2Remove the airbag unit cover.

3Remove the water deflector from in front of the windscreen.

4Remove the windscreen.

5The brackets can now be unbolted.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Note: Read warning at the beginning of Section 55, before starting work.

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead and cover the battery terminal to prevent accidental reconnection.

2Remove the centre console rear section as described in Chapter 11.

3Disconnect the control unit wiring plug, then undo the three nuts and remove the unit from the car (see illustration).

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

62 Wiring diagrams - general

1The wiring diagrams are of the current flow type, each circuit being shown in the simplest possible fashion. Note that since the diagrams were originally written in German (to the DIN standard), all wire colours and abbreviations used on the diagrams themselves are in German. Refer to the information given overleaf for clarification.

2The bottom line of the diagram represents the “ earth” or negative connection; the numbers below this line are track numbers, enabling circuits and components to be located using the key.

3The lines at the top of the diagram represent “ live feed” or positive connection points. The line marked “ 30” is live at all times, that marked “15” is live only when the ignition is switched on.

4Numbers on the diagram that are framed in square boxes at the end of a wire show the track reference number in which that wire is continued. At the point indicated will be another framed number referring back to the circuit just left.

5As an example of how to use the diagrams, trace with the help of the following text the reversing lamp switch circuit located between track reference numbers 496 and 498 on the 1991 model year diagram on page 12• 40.

6Starting at the top of track 497, the supply for the circuit comes from the line “ 15” , showing that the circuit is fed only when the ignition is switched on, through fuse 22 (F22,

rated at 10 amps). Note that this fuse can also protect the feed for several other circuits, some of which may not be applicable to the vehicle being worked on.

7 If the vehicle in question has a manual transmission (MT), the circuit continues along a black wire of 0.75 mm cross-section (as shown by “SW 0.75” in the wire path), through terminal 12 of connector X5 to the reversing lamp switch S7. From the switch the circuit continues along a white wire, with a black tracer and of 0.75 mm cross-section (WSSW 0.75), through terminal 2 of connector X5 and terminal 1 of connector X6, to the reversing lamp bulbs (E17 and E18). The circuit is completed by a brown wire from each bulbholder to earth; in this case the “ earth” wire simply attaches the component to the nearest piece of metal bodywork, but in other cases earthing is achieved by the component mounting and no wire is needed. The diagram shows, as simply as possible, that when the switch contacts (which are normally open) are closed by the driver selecting reverse gear, current is allowed to flow to earth through the switch and bulbs causing the reversing lamps to light.

8 If the vehicle in question has automatic transmission (AT), the circuit differs in that the “live feed” goes from fuse 22 to terminal “F” of the transmission selector lever position switch connector X46 (track reference number 773). When position “R” is selected, terminals “F” and “G” are connected so that the circuit feed continues (back to track reference number 496, the “RFS/reversing lamp” circuit) along the same route described above for manual transmission models.

K88 Catalytic converter temperature control unit (not UK) 760 to 762